AirportSan Sebastián Airport (EAS) is small — better to fly into Bilbao (BIO, 1h) or Biarritz (BIQ, 45 min)
Best neighbourhoodsParte Vieja (Old Town) · Gros · Centro · Ondarreta
June temperature21–24 °C, Atlantic coast, reliably pleasant
ConnectionsBilbao 1h by bus · Biarritz (France) 45 min · Pamplona 1h
Language tipDonostia is the Basque name; locals use both — either is fine
Reale Arena — intimate, modern, and loud
The Reale Arena (officially Estadio Anoeta) is home to Real Sociedad and completed a major renovation in 2019 that brought the capacity to 39,500 in a fully-enclosed, covered bowl. This is one of the smaller World Cup venues in Spain but delivers some of the most concentrated crowd intensity — tight upper tiers, minimal distance from the pitch, and Basque football culture in full effect.
Getting there: The stadium is in the Anoeta sports complex, 25 minutes on foot from the old town along the riverbank — a genuinely pleasant walk pre-match. Buses 26 and 31 connect from the city centre. The Eusko Tren suburban railway stops at Anoeta station (from the main Amara rail hub).
Small city, big event: San Sebastián is compact (190,000 population). On a World Cup matchday the impact on restaurants, taxis, and public transport will be significant. Book dinner before the match and plan your post-match transport before arriving.
Getting to San Sebastián
The local airport (EAS) handles limited domestic flights. For most international travellers, these are the practical access points:
Via Bilbao Airport (BIO): PESA bus direct to San Sebastián's Amara bus station — 1h15, runs frequently (~every 30 min in peak hours), €8–10. This is the main route for European arrivals.
Via Biarritz Airport (BIQ, France): Taxi or rental car — 45 min. A useful option if you're flying in from Paris or UK airports on airlines that serve Biarritz.
By train from Madrid: Alvia train (not AVE, but comfortable) — 5h to Donostia-San Sebastián station. Or AVE to Bilbao (~4h) then bus.
By bus from Bilbao: PESA operates direct buses from Bilbao's Termibus station — 1h15. Very reliable and comfortable.
Within the city: The old town and beach are walkable. Buses cover the rest. A car is unnecessary and parking is scarce during events.
Where to stay — neighbourhood by neighbourhood
Parte Vieja (Old Town)
The historic heart with the famous pintxos bars. Loud until 2–3 am on weekends, narrow streets that amplify sound. Perfect if you're here for the full Basque experience. Not for light sleepers.
Budget: mid to high (€120–220/night)
Gros
The surfer neighbourhood across the Urumea river — Zurriola beach, younger vibe, excellent local restaurants (the bar Bodegón Alejandro is here). Quieter nights than Parte Vieja but walkable to everything.
Budget: mid (€95–170/night)
Centro
The commercial centre around Boulevard and Buen Pastor Cathedral. Clean, central, with good hotel infrastructure. 10 minutes walk to Parte Vieja and La Concha beach.
Budget: mid-range (€100–180/night)
Ondarreta
Quiet western residential area near the second beach. Calmer and more local. Longer walk to Parte Vieja (20 min) but ideal if you want early morning runs on the beach without crowds.
Budget: mid (€90–160/night)
San Sebastián has very limited accommodation capacity. It is popular year-round with gourmet tourists and surfers. Book 12–18 months ahead for World Cup dates — this city will be oversubscribed faster than almost any other host venue.
The pintxos circuit — how to eat like you live here
San Sebastián's Parte Vieja old town contains more pintxos bars per square metre than any place on earth. The Michelin-starred restaurants (Arzak, Mugaritz, Akelarre) are extraordinary but require booking months in advance and a significant budget. The pintxos circuit is accessible, excellent, and the better introduction to Basque food culture.
The format: Walk in, order a drink, eat whatever is on the bar or order from the specials board behind the bar. Move on after one or two pintxos. This is a 2–3 hour social activity, not a sit-down dinner.
Key streets: Calle 31 de Agosto, Calle Fermín Calbetón, and Plaza de la Constitución have the highest concentration of classic bars.
Must-try pintxos: Gilda (the original — anchovy, olive, guindilla), txangurro (spider crab on bread), foie gras pintxos (more complex in the gourmet bars), and bacalao in all forms.
Bar Ganbara: On Calle San Jerónimo, famous for its wild mushroom and foie preparations in autumn, exceptional year-round.
Timing: Locals eat pintxos from 7–9 pm. Arriving at 6 pm means empty bars; arriving at 9 pm means crowds. 7:30 pm is the sweet spot.
Budget reality: Pintxos bars accept card payments now but cash is still preferred at older establishments. Average cost: €2–4 per pintxo, €2.50–3.50 for a txakoli or beer. A full evening circuit costs €25–40 per person — exceptional value relative to the quality.
La Concha beach — one of the great city beaches in Europe
La Concha (The Shell) bay is a perfect crescent of sheltered, calm water with soft sand, backed by the old town on one side and Monte Igueldo on the other. July water temperature averages 20°C — warm enough to swim, cool enough to refresh. On a matchday morning, a swim at La Concha before heading to Anoeta stadium is an experience unique to this host city.
Monte Urgull: The hilltop above Parte Vieja with a castle and panoramic views. Free entry, 20-minute walk up.
Monte Igueldo: The western headland with a funicular (€3.50 return) and views of the full bay. Classic Instagram shot for everyone, unavoidable.